Firm Foundations - How Understanding Grainline Improves Your Final Sewing Results

Starting out - I would ask for random yardages of fabrics for Christmas, I'd find sheets with cool designs at thrift stores, and I'd cut up old gowns to get my hands on fabrics for my projects. This lent itself to a number of unwearable projects with puckers, wonky hems, and messy results which would have been discouraging were it not for my teenage audacity.

Contrary to my belief, the problem wasn't my 20 year old machine, my discount fabrics, nor my hand-me-down notions - it was my blatant disregard for pattern markings - especially those for grainline.

When we are short on funds or are closing in on a deadline, it is easy to cut corners - literally. Laying your pattern pieces down in any way they may fit on the fabric is a great way to lead your project down a dodgy path of uneven hems (garment is on the bias when it shouldn't be), too-tight waistbands (WB was cut on the straight grain when it wasn't supposed to be), and the dreaded rippling seam (you have two pieces meant to be going in the same direction, but have a combination of crossgrain/grainline/bias occurring).

In my latest video - video two in my Beginner Sewing Series - I cover the basics of grainline and the important part it plays in ensuring that your finished projects have smooth seams, consistent hems, and the drape (or structure!) you've dreamed of. I break down the vocab, offer industry insight, and go over the quick and simple instructions for out second page in our Sewing Sample Book. Remember to follow along and collect new skills along the way!

Ready to kickstart your sewing? Check out the basic vocab for grainline below.

GRAINLINE VOCAB:

• SELVAGE EDGE - THE TIGHT EDGES OF FABRIC WHICH EXIST DUE TO HOW FABRIC IS MADE ON A LOOM - NOT USED IN PROFESSIONAL LOOKING GARMENTS DUE TO INCONSISTENT TENSION AND LOOK

• GRAINLINE - PARALLEL TO THE SELVAGE, MOST STRENGTH, NO STRETCH

• CROSSGRAIN - SOME STRETCH, LESS STRENGTH, PERPENDICULAR TO GRAINLINE

• BIAS - MOST STRETCH, 45 DEGREE DIAGONAL ANGLE FROM GRAINLINE
  

Next Episode - we're diving into our first project tutorial! Who's ready for a home decor designer DIY dupe?

Just joining the Beginner Sewing Series? Grab your freebies to make your own Sewing Sample Book here.